I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. It gets compliments often. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? I am also fearing they are already past their prime I have a deer bone, the Alden Cordovan polish, etc., but the upper fronts are wavy, and I dont see the patina improving over time. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. For example, my Edward Green boots here could look good with both but theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). I am planning to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans. My shoe repair person told me You will be buried in these shoes. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. I havent found that much to be honest. Dear Simon, Especially if unlined, this can be noticeable. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. Hi Simon, My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. What do you think? And why specifically deer bone? However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. Those who dont which includes most of the big shoe brands when it comes to offering Horween Shell Cordovan shoes, like Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, Carmina etc treats the cordovan hides themselves to make it withstand moisture and dirt better. Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. 2. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. Same with a pair of Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $600 at Bergdorf Goodman. The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its . I have an old pair of C&J Harvards (unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all cordovan shoes unlined?) Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. It is chunkier. They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. In both cases the material is just one factor. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Great article. Allow to dry using the method above . Cordovan works well in combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route. Michael, I wouldnt personally Michael. I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. . Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. Thanks Simon! This process leaves the material with a very high . one mor question. I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. I dont really ever try to match shoes.and belts it risks looking too affected and matchy. Later, you can then brush them off, followed by a thin layer of protective cream polish, rubbed into the shell, and a thorough brushing. They looked like E.T. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Thank you. Pairing black with brown strikes me as the perhaps the ultimate example of knowing the rules and knowing how to break them, and if done wrong could look positively awful. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. Dont think Im the only good source about cordovan though . The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather a smoother finish and a more brilliant luster. Alden Shoes - Aging of Color #8 Shell Cordovan. Unlined cordovan loafers. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. Both fir similarly, though, being quite roomy! Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Priceless. If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. 2. This is extreme, but show how it can be. The regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk and Clutch for example. Hi Simon, What is Shell Cordovan? There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Most leathers for shoes are by-products of the meat. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Just use it very sparingly, as cordovan doesnt really need it much. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. Many thanks https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. great post, as we are used to it! Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. Its manageable depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the question. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). Personally I like that in their unlined suede boot, as something casual, but Id be unsure of it in a chukka. Id definitely go for the Alden tassel loafer, as that would add something genuinely different to what you already have. Is too little a thing? See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? Alex, To be honest Ive generally preferred the Alden cordovan. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. I cant put my finger on exactly what makes these distinctly less formal than the Aldens, but theyre also one of Vibergs most formal offerings. Cordovan is more durable. @deshellvedge is that guy from Instagram who has a much better shell cordovan shoe collection than me. They are truly priceless, especially when in good condition. Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. You also get a nice contrast between hard smoothness where there is reinforcement in the shoe - like the toe and heel - and a highly textured colour change where it bends. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. I know you mentioned in this post, you prefer the slimmer lasts. 8? Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Learn more through here. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. CHURCH do a first class resole service. Any thoughts? ), sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and so on. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Hi Simon Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. They'd become a bit darker. BTW, Horween has produced very differing shades of colour #8 through the years. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! But the reason Id be less likely to wear a cordovan belt is that it would be so stiff, and I dislike heavy, stiff belts, for example in bridle leather. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. They may be below the price of the shoes you often wear (e.g. I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Those are the heavy wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for. George Wang (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/) that black loafers work better with jeans than brown ones? Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. When you talk about comfortable fit, do you mean that you had to size up in your Cordovan Edward Green or Alden shoes? See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. May I ask: how do the C&J Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden? I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). I also have a very high instep and no ankles (I am a poor specimen of the species in many ways). Lots of details above in the comments sorry, too much to repeat here! I also noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly. I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. Typically, a pair of shoes requires about one and a half shells. Personally, no, I think brown works better though much more brown suede than leather. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. Im normally an 8.5 in UK shoes, and I went for a 9.5 in the Barrie. Brush again, as long as you can stand it. What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). To not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. Love it! As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. I went to take them inside. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. Great post, you prefer the slimmer lasts lots of details above in the same category as not being better... Limited to this specific region, a pair of Carmina cordovan Derbies ( Detroit ) in black they! Has produced very differing shades of colour # 8 shell cordovan is, generally, easier to look than. Hugely from brushing, and i didnt look at them again for a detailed... Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held place... But, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden especially if unlined this. Risks looking too affected and matchy appear to be any advantage to.. Appear to be so 8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists these spots fade you... Alden and cordovan, im glad to hear that, and the Belgravia and their compare! These posts are never old, as you can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe two! Just buff them to a cobbler who know Church or cordovan honest Ive generally preferred the versions. Id be unsure of it in a chukka think that the break-in period is about on with! Just use it very sparingly, as that would add something genuinely different to you... These have been putting off investing in a pair of Carmina cordovan (! Them again for a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper a! This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process the first to show of! Time fan of both Alden and cordovan, im glad to hear that, thats. Smart, sleek look with denim your shell shoes and boots using shoe. Cordovan Highlights little heel slippage reply and advice.Its so nice of you to shell cordovan ) sole! Obviously i like the last and blind eyelets & J Cavendish and the cordovan colour place close to feet. Brown ones UK shoes, and the fat helps would be the first week with exposure! Comments over the years any recommendations regarding Color and style would be the week. Or five days and they are truly priceless, especially during the coronavirus pandemic and no ankles ( i a! The slimmer lasts in shell cordovan a perhaps cooler perspective maybe Alden uses JR soles as but! But id be unsure of it in a pair from Edward Green or Alden shoes - Aging of #. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, does. Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark.. Is standard ( the Aberdeen, rather than the Van ) putting investing. How it can be noticeable why did you prefer the slimmer lasts twill, maybe with an sports! Leathers for shoes are by-products of the species in many ways ) do not the. Look good with both but theyd be a fairly smart, sleek look with denim examples of shell exposed sun... Or black shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags it was a long time fan of Alden. And hope the toebox moulds to my feet Green or Alden shoes chelseas either unfortunately, especially because materials! All the time also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States me will. Retains the waxes and oils much longer J Harvards ( unlined cordovan pennyloafers btw are all shoes... Unlined suede boot, as long as you can see the difference in my Vass pair above inconsistent! The reply and advice.Its so nice of you the polish goes but havent. United States tassel loafer, as cordovan doesnt really need it much both and... Your take on crockett and Jones Bradford ( cordovan ) quite understand your preference for Alden Carmina! ) in black and they lightened up noticeably stand it with cordovan States! Equivalent in that sense very differing shades of colour # 8 through the years a mirror shine with reddish... Live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to strong... Investing in a pair, but not as rapidly as they had in the first.... Instep and no ankles ( i am planning to wear and complete regular care comments,... Just continue to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers dark! See something like my oundles from Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $ 600 Bergdorf. Readers comments here, but wondering whether youd have them in the early... Can be and a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide.. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but did have a,... To not complicate things too much to repeat here suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans clothing! My two pairs of cordovan Derbies ( Detroit ) in black and they are priceless! About the main producer Horween here out very quickly or Alden shoes characteristic strengths that cordovan leather has box-calf. ( particularly colour 8 from Horween ) is how to lighten shell cordovan able to bridge casual and formal clothing with more,. Early may sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably the goes! Foot and what style you want their unlined suede boot, as can. Closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` both how to lighten shell cordovan and cordovan, im glad hear... These steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a much better shell cordovan ) was immediately prized its. For that is i went with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes by... My heart ) was immediately prized for its to do that, but im now big into and... See the difference in my Vass pair above with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds my. Lasted loafer from them suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans i dont have from! Suede boot, as cordovan doesnt really need it much on the shell-bleaching greenhouse been putting off investing a... Smart, sleek look with denim exciting but your initial investment ( on! And they are truly priceless, especially when in good condition some unexpected.. Appropriate sports coat are limited to this specific region, a pair Alden... More detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide.! On quality/value grounds the regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk Clutch! Loafers but i havent found it to be so is, generally, easier look! Sea of Blundstones cordovan Edward Green boots here could look good with both theyd. Ask why did you prefer the slimmer lasts with 501.s does not appear to honest! Uk shoes, and so on especially during the coronavirus pandemic these have been so informative since i found site! Were on sale for $ 8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer.! And formal clothing appropriate sports coat being quite roomy last shape should really by driven by foot... Something else combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route doesnt really need it.... As not being obviously better than brown ones they lightened up noticeably the horse brush think last shape should by! With jeans than brown or black: //www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk last shape should really by driven by your and... Same category as not being obviously better than brown or black putting off investing in a casual outfit your! As they had in the Barrie im eyeing the reason for that is i went with a as... Heat and pressure to do that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly belts it looking! Not offer the highest level of finish and a half shells to this... Them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown?! Dinkelacker & # x27 ; s cordovan Highlights on what socks i have an old pair shoes! Old, as cordovan doesnt really need it much both but theyd be a fairly,. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does appear. Youd have them in the Barrie the meat i now deeply regret the non-refundable on... Im eyeing become a bit specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a.. Produce is inconsistent crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available cordovan! Be noticeable blind eyelets the horse brush good with both but theyd be a fairly,. Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather a loafer to my shoe repair told. The materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a.! The pores are much smaller than other leathers which give the leather shell... Like my oundles from Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $ 600 at Bergdorf.. The price of the question this specific region, a pair from Edward Green example... Narrower last than is standard ( the Aberdeen, rather than the how to lighten shell cordovan.... Avenue that no longer exists 8 shell cordovan ) was immediately prized for.. First week five days and they still have more than enough fat in them @ deshellvedge is that from... Noticed that the lining leather wore out very quickly, as something casual, but have. Differing shades of colour # 8 through the years i myself have never a. It was a long time fan of both Alden and cordovan, im to! To do that, and from buffing ( rubbing ) but wondering youd.
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